The Unseen Ingredients: Endocrine Disrupting Chemicals (EDCs)

Many commonly used hair products, contain chemicals that can disrupt the endocrine system. These are known as Endocrine Disrupting Chemicals (EDCs), and they are ubiquitous in our daily environments and many consumer products, including pesticides, flame retardants, plastics, and personal care items. EDCs interfere with the body's natural hormone signaling through numerous biological pathways, leading to diverse health consequences, including impacts on male and female reproduction, hormonal cancers, thyroid disruption, and neurodevelopmental effects.

What are EDCs?:

EDCs are chemicals that can mimic or block natural hormones, leading to health issues like reproductive problems, hormonal cancers, and thyroid disruption.

Common examples found in hair products include phthalates and parabens.

A pilot study examining EDC-associated hair product use during pregnancy found that daily use of hair oils during late pregnancy might be associated with earlier gestational age at delivery. While this was a pilot study with a small sample size, it raises critical questions about the impact of these chemicals during sensitive periods. The study highlights that non-Hispanic Black participants reported significantly higher use of hair oils (92%), hair lotions (83%), and leave-in conditioners (83%) compared to non-Hispanic White participants (26%, 18%, and 35%, respectively). This disparity in product use and chemical exposure is a critical health equity concern, often reflecting broader environmental justice issues.

Some specific EDCs found in hair products include:

Phthalates and Parabens: These are common ingredients known for their endocrine-disrupting properties. They have been linked to various health issues, including altered pubertal timing in girls and boys, and potential risks for preterm birth. Phthalates, for instance, may alter inflammatory pathways associated with parturition.

Other Hormone-Active Chemicals: Research has detected a range of hormone-active chemicals, including some with estrogenic and anti-estrogenic activity, in off-the-shelf hair and skin care products. Certain chemicals in hair dyes and chemical straighteners have also been linked to increased breast cancer risk. Hair relaxer use has also been linked to adverse pregnancy outcomes and uterine leiomyomata.

The Challenge of Consumer Awareness and Regulation

Many consumers have incomplete knowledge about EDCs. A significant misconception is that chemicals must be tested for safety before they can be used in products in the United States. This false belief can lead to a lower level of concern about consumer product chemicals compared to "traditional" pollutants like banned pesticides. However, the truth is that some chemicals used in U.S. beauty products are banned in Europe. Most participants in a study correctly identified that scientists are not sure about all the health implications of chemicals, but wrongly believed doctors could predict future health impacts from chemical levels.

Studies on environmental health literacy (EHL) show that while people may understand basic exposure pathways and health impacts, they often lack critical understanding of chemical regulation. Report-back of individual chemical exposure results can be an effective way to increase consumer knowledge and concern, prompting people to take action to reduce exposures, particularly to chemicals like PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances) found in nonstick cookware and stain-resistant products. The information gained from these reports can lead to an increase in concern about consumer product chemicals.

How to Become a Confident, Informed Consumer:

Empowering yourself with knowledge and making conscious choices is essential, particularly during vulnerable periods like pregnancy.

Educate Yourself on EDCs and Their Sources:

How-to Tip: Understand that EDCs are common in personal care products. Look for terms like "phthalates," "parabens," "fragrance" (which can hide many chemicals), and "formaldehyde-releasing preservatives" on ingredient lists. Be aware that products marketed as "natural" may still contain EDCs or other harmful substances.

Scientific Support: Studies measure EDCs and asthma-associated chemicals in hair products used by Black women, highlighting specific problematic ingredients. Research also outlines the broad categories of EDCs and their health impacts. The FREIA project focuses on identifying biomarkers and outcomes of endocrine disruption.

Scrutinize Ingredient Lists and Choose Wisely:

How-to Tip: Make it a habit to read product labels thoroughly. Opt for products with shorter ingredient lists and those that explicitly state they are free from phthalates, parabens, and synthetic fragrances. Don't be fooled by marketing jargon; demand transparency.

Scientific Support: The use of questionnaires to query product use and example products for each category helps identify problematic ingredients. Studies analyze hormonal activity in common Black hair care products, revealing the presence of EDCs.

Prioritize Your Health During Sensitive Life Stages (e.g., Pregnancy):

How-to Tip: During pregnancy, err on the side of caution. Reduce or eliminate the use of hair oils, lotions, leave-in conditioners, and especially chemical relaxers/perms, as these have been associated with potential adverse outcomes. Discuss any concerns with your healthcare provider.

Scientific Support: A pilot study specifically examined the association of hair product use during pregnancy with gestational age at delivery, suggesting daily use of hair oils in late pregnancy may be linked to earlier delivery. Previous research also links hair relaxer use to adverse pregnancy outcomes and uterine leiomyomata.

Embrace Natural Alternatives for Hair Care and Dyeing:

How-to Tip: Explore natural, plant-based options for cleansing, conditioning, and coloring your hair. For dyeing, consider anthocyanin-rich extracts from plants like purple corn cobs, which can be enhanced by natural alkaline pretreatments like eucalyptus ash, without the harsh damage of strong chemicals.

Scientific Support: Eucalyptus ash has been shown to alter hair protein conformation and facilitate anthocyanin dyeing, offering a natural and less damaging alternative. Anthocyanins from plants like Zea mays are praised as natural hair dyes. This allows you to care for your hair with raw, organic ingredients that work with nature, not against it.

Be Aware of Disparities and Advocate for Change:

How-to Tip: Recognize that Black women, in particular, may face higher exposure to EDCs through targeted product marketing and cultural hair practices. Support brands and policies that advocate for safer ingredients for all women.

Scientific Support: Studies have consistently shown racial/ethnic disparities in exposure to environmental EDCs, linking these to health disparities. This highlights the need for environmental justice in beauty products.

Take Action to Reduce Overall Chemical Exposure in Your Home:

How-to Tip: Beyond hair products, reduce your exposure to EDCs from other sources. Consider replacing nonstick cookware, avoiding stain-resistant textiles (like rugs), and being mindful of plastics in food storage and packaging. Even simple actions like handwashing effectively reduce chemical exposures.

Scientific Support: Research shows that participants, after receiving information, reduce behaviors associated with PFAS, such as eating microwave popcorn or food prepared with nonstick cookware. The importance of understanding regulations is also highlighted, as it influences decisions on public policy engagement.

Becoming an informed consumer is a journey of continuous learning and conscious choice. At Tousselled, we are committed to providing you with the scientific truth, so you can make confident, uplifting choices for your hair and your health, ensuring your beauty thrives without compromise.